Evolution of the Propeller
by Chuck Petersen
My outboard motor building mentor often referred to a new factory produced race engine as a complete kit
project ready for rebuilding! I have learned to respect this viewpoint as gospel pertaining to both motors and propellers. My early days of stock outboard racing involved a learning curve relating to not only driving skills, but equipment upgrades. A skilled mentor will build a first class, reliable power plant for the rookie driver but keep speeds down to safe levels by adjusting tune and set up in gradual increments. No individual component is more important to a competitive
rig than the part that hits the water first, the propeller. In
previous articles, we discussed after-market vendors of high performance props, a key element in adding speed to early 
race rigs. This is just part of the picture when it comes to
ultimate performance.
My first few years of racing would see the complete restoration and upgrade to an older, national champion winning hull and three engine powerhead build ups. By my fourth year, I had as competitive a hull and engine in my class as any in the region. My propeller box, however, only contained two well worn examples that kept me out of the top two finishing spots. Enter the Propeller Lords. One day, at a major regional race, my mentor handed me a nice little three blade prop and said, Try this one today. I set up the motor as instructed (transom height and tilt) and proceeded to pass up current national high point champion at the start and win the race! My motor sounded as if it had gained 10hp and 1000 rpm! What an eye-opener. Fine tuning and fitting a prop to the boat and racing conditions requires skill and no small amount of pocket change. Short cuts can be achieved by knowing the right prop builder. This is no small feat, as they tend to be few in number, and like all fine artists, a bit eccentric. My most recent experience with an artist is this class has proven the point yet again. In 2001, I sold my Century Palomino and Boston Whaler fishing boat and purchased a more practical family boat, an 18 ft Donzi Classic stern drive. The original factory wheel is a 23 pitch Mercury Stainless three blade model. This worked OK, but did not turn the rpm numbers I was looking for and broke loose or cavitated when the drive was trimmed out. I knew I could do better, but did not want to buy 5 or 6 wheels at $500.00 a copy to find one that worked. 
A fellow high performance enthusiast suggested I get the original prop re-worked as a local shop in Honey Creek, Wisconsin. What I did not know at the time was that I was about to meet one of the premier craftsmen in this obscure business in the world. John Janaky and his son, Jeff are the kind of people you meet from time to time in boating that really make the hobby so appealing. Johns skills were developed through many years at Mercury Marine and a
successful racing career. He now receives orders from around the globe to refinish and refine stainless propellers. He took my old prop and through careful thinning and re-shaping, tuned it into a work of art!!! I gained 300 rpm and 3 mph on the 
first try. I have just taken delivery of the second version and cant wait to try it out! Significant control and stability have also been attained. This is a fraction of the cost of a single new wheel. Two elements must be stressed:
* I started with a quality casting. The factory cant justify the cost involved in fine tuning each wheel to this extent.
* provided detailed testing notes. Boat model, horse power, rpm, speed and gear case design are all important.
Many of the restored classic outboard rigs seen at out shows are powered by motors current enough to benefit from a propeller upgrade. In addition, take advantage of club members for advice and/or referrals. This hold true for both restoration, finish and performance details. Best wishes to all at BSLOL. It is Wednesday, April 9th and my dad just called asking for help putting in the docks this weekend.